Linangkit Cultural Village - by Cherry and Mac

One of the highlights of our visit to Sabah was the afternoon we spent at Linangkit Cultural Village. This collection of traditional buildings has been set up by a small group of individuals keen to preserve their cultural heritage in a rapidly modernising society.

The visit starts with the removal of shoes and ceremonial washing of feet before entering the small museum by our guide and curator, an erstwhile engineering student, now full-time front man of the enterprise.

Cherry in the museum

The museum's most memorable exhibits were some shrunken heads, some huge Chinese storage jars, adopted as ritual objects by the tribespeople and a full tribal costume, complete with embroidered jacket and hooped belt which the tourist can try on.

Julita working on 'linangkit'

The distinctive tribal textile tradition is kept alive by Julita  who keeps her brightly coloured threads in a clear plastic tool box for easy identification.  

Young & old play drums & gongs

Our visit culminated in a traditional meal served in the large and airy function room, built over the river, to provide a natural cooling system. Some younger members of the group appeared in costume and played the traditional gongs, whilst we ate ‘hinata’ (raw fish) and drank the local brew or freshly prepared tea. The village also boasts a small fish farm and is planning some small-scale purpose-built tourist accommodation with additional restaurant facilities. 



View of Linangkit Cultural Village

This was written by Cherry Taylor and the photos were taken by Mac Campeanu.  You can see more of his photos on:  http://gallery.me.com/campeanu#100099&view=grid&bgcolor=black&sel=59

If you have any comments or questions, please just write to me at:  jude@astsabah.com.  I'd love to hear from you. 

Chinese New Year Lion Dances in KK

Chinese New Year in Kota Kinabalu! It seemed to be even noisier this year - wonderful fireworks and lots of trucks driving around town full of lion and dragon troupes.
Before the start of New Year itself - which is a two week event! - there is a Lion, Unicorn and Dragon festival in KK. It's a wonderful opportunity to see the skill of these young men as they prance and jump and rear up and seem to nearly fall off the poles they leap over. It's quite an amazing display of talent and strength. You can see the poles in some of the pictures in the collage above. They're quite high and are tested carefully by the lion dancers before they begin to make sure they are stable. Some groups even have members sitting around the bottom of the poles to keep the whole structure steady.

The heads of the lions are beautiful to see and the dancer inside can give a lot of character to his lion by the way he moves the ears and eyelids, as well as the tilt of the head and the position of the leg.

Amazing how the lions can be both cute and powerful - the dances are so gymnastic!

Truckloads of lions and sometimes dragons drive around KK during the two weeks of Chinese New Year, visiting temples, homes and business places. They bless the altars, produce scrolls from their mouths that contain best wishes for the year to come, and amaze and delight with their antics on the poles! You can really hear people ooh! and aah! as they watch the amazing techniques that the skilled pair of lion dancers has.

When a new lion's head has been made and is ready to be worn in a dance, someone with status is invited to draw in the centre of each eye - giving life to the head. Quite an inspiring idea. Perhaps one that would make you think twice if you were invited to do this!

These pictures were taken by Helen Morgan and Yap Cheen Boon at the Lion, Unicorn and Dragon Dance Exhibition in KK earlier in February. There are also a couple that I took at other places.

If you have any questions or comments, we would love to hear from you. Don't hesitate to get in touch with us at: ron@astsabah.com or jude@astsabah.com

Trying to be selective!

The Pesta Ka'amatan is now at an end - we'll have to wait another year for the next Harvest Festival. It's a wonderful month of celebration - and a real problem as far as photos go! I took a lot and just can't decide which ones to show you.

So have a look at these pictures that were all taken at the Heritage Village which is part of the Sabah Museum. During the first week of May, in particular, there were lots of activities going on in the traditional houses that are built around a lovely pond and up a hillside.

One of the moments that made me smile was seeing a woman fishing in the pond! She looked completely at home. (Top left) There was a house especially for weavers, embroiderers and beadmakers and they sat quietly getting on with their own work. Cloth, embroidery and beads were for sale. (2nd left top) In a replica of an old Chinese house, there were a couple making pots and carving them. It was lovely to see the young woman using the old pot as her model for the one she was working on. (3rd left top) And everywhere you went, you bumped into people wearing their traditional dress - so modestly and so proudly at the same time. (Top right) In a lot of houses, there were groups playing music and dancing, sometimes for visitors and sometimes for themselves. I tried using the local type of castanets that one group was using - not as easy as it looks - but a terrific sound. (Bottom right) And there's something elegant about the headdresses that sway as the wearer moves! (Bottom middle) Sometimes people just sat and watched what was going on - the same as I was doing! (Bottom left) In this second collage, you can see one of those elegant, totally confident older women you would love to get to know. (Top left) And there were a couple of friends who decided to sit outside, away from the air-conditioning, for a while. (Top middle) Then a beautiful pair of children who were very involved in the dancing and being taught carefully how to maintain their traditions. Just getting dressed correctly is something to learn! (Middle) On the right is a close up of the necklaces the young boy was wearing and the gold decorations on the front of his shirt. (Right) From the young to the old - we saw an old man do a very energetic dance, with foot stamping and arm waving! It was a privilege to see him. The younger people with him explained that he was the oldest person in their village to do this particular dance. (Bottom left) And finally, there's the humorous guy - he was sitting outside to have a smoke and you just wish you could talk to him and have a laugh together. (Centre bottom)

Pesta Ka'amatan - the Harvest Festival month - the month of May in Sabah. What a great time to be here! The high points of the festival are in the first week and the last two days of the month.

If you have any questions or comments, do write and let us know. Send a note to ron@astsabah.com or jude@astsabah.com. We'd love to hear from you!

The Murut Festival in Tenom - April 09

Plan your holiday in Sabah to include the Pesta Kalimaran of the Murut people - the third largest indigenous group here! It is held in Tenom every year in April. This year it was over the weekend of April 3-5. What an event! It was visually stunning - a kaleidoscope of colour. People were having a good time and there was a strong sense of vitality.

Going to a festival like this reminds me why I love Sabah so much. It's that 'Sabah style' with everyone being so welcoming, hospitable and inclusive. We were always being approached to introduce ourselves and people wanted to explain what was going on, especially on Sunday when they had the 'wedding' ceremony. They made sure we always had something to eat and drink and somewhere to sit. And where else could you ask your local MP to fill in a few minutes by singing a couple of songs to the huge audience?!?

The cultural performances included a gong competition, dance display and bamboo dance competition. There were interesting and informative displays, showing arts and crafts, as well as the clothing of the 7 different Murut ethnic groups. There was also a variety of stalls to look at and a range of food and drinks for sale. And even a ferris wheel!

The whole festival was professionally done and very well organised with events starting on time and introduced by very competent mcs. They even threw in the odd comment in English for the foreign guests - us!

Every year at this festival, they include a particular aspect of the traditional culture. This year it concerned the final dowry payment made by the husband's family to his wife's family. The couple get married after the dowry has been agreed, but the payments may happen in instalments and take years - even until grandchildren have been born! Nevertheless, when the final payment is made, it is a reason to have a feast. The gifts are accepted, speeches are given, songs are sung, the gongs are struck, the rice wine is drunk - and everyone has a great time. The payment can be in the form of cloth, ceramic jars, wine and strings of beads, for example.

It was the first time I had seen rice wine in the traditional tall jars, with the bamboo straws to drink from. The expectation is that you will drink until the level of the rice wine drops to the next red mark - an enormous amount to drink! I couldn't do it - even though the wine was delicious - but there were others who certainly could.

If you have any comments or questions, please just send an email to: ron@astsabah.com or jude@astsabah.com. We'd love to hear from you.

Going to a Lotud Wedding - by Brenda Morgan

How fortunate I was to be here in Sabah for a real Lotud wedding! The nephew of the Manager of the Linangkit Cultural Centre (see the blog below Preserving traditions - a family venture) was getting married and I was invited through my connection with Ron and Jude. I had chosen to do the Food Tour with Adventure Study Tours and was lucky enough to be included in the wedding as well.

When we arrived at the Cultural Centre, we were warmly welcomed and taken straight into the area where the bride and groom were sitting on a dais. We were asked to sit on the floor - Ron went onto the stage with guests and local dignitaries and my friend and I sat down with the women in their beautiful traditional costumes. We were immediately surrounded by plates of traditional food which we ate with our fingers.

Meanwhile, the bride and groom were having photos taken with different groups of wedding guests. We were introduced and they asked us to have a photo taken with them as well.

My overwhelming impression was of the hospitality of these people who were going to entertain and feed over 800 guests during the course of a long day! Everyone wanted to know our names and where we were from and there was always someone with us to make sure we had something to eat and to fill our bowls with local brew. This is called 'bahar' and is a type of toddy or palm wine, made from coconut sap, fermented with special bark. We drank it from bowls, rather than glasses, and it was rather bitter with a strong alcohol taste. (The photo of Brenda drinking 'bahar' was taken by Consuelo Cardenas M. The others were taken by Brenda.)

The afternoon included a mixture of traditional and western-type entertainment. Firstly, there were young girls showing off their traditional dance skills to the accompaniment of gongs and drums and then the guests had a lot of fun with karaoke and line dancing. And everybody was involved: the bride and groom, the managers of the cultural centre, young and old - and even us!

The bride and grooom changed into western clothes during the course of the afternoon and then the dancing and karaoke carried on!

The food, the drink and the hospitality continued into the evening in the wonderful setting of the village.

As I think back to this day, my memory is of wonderfully hospitable people who seem to know so well how to have fun in a relaxed and comfortable way - in a really beautiful environment.

Brenda Morgan, Calgary, Canada

If you have any comments or questions about Sabah, please write to us at: ron@astsabah.com and jude@astsabah.com. We'd love to hear from you.

Preserving traditions - a family venture

AST: Sabah is about to launch two more tours: the Peoples of Sabah and the Arts & Crafts Tour. It's always a lot of fun researching these, partly because of the wonderful people you meet and partly because of what you learn - and there is so much to learn here in Sabah!

I had been talking to someone about the possibility of having a mock traditional wedding as part of the Peoples Tour and she rang me to suggest that we visit Linangkit Cultural Village. This is an exciting new family-run project and it was fascinating to see what a professional, quality project it is. We really enjoyed meeting the friendly people there who are committed to preserving their culture and traditions - tourism being one way of doing this - as well as using this project as a way of motivating young people to value their heritage.

Most of the photos that I am using here have been kindly provided by Linangkit Cultural Village and were taken by Ceaser Jilan and Elvin Jilan, sons of the Managing Director, Alice Tee Jilan. Others were taken by me.

Linangkit Cultural Village is in a kampong (village) near Tuaran, about 30 minutes north of Kota Kinabalu. The ethnic group is Lotud, a branch of the Kadazandusun, but with a strong sense of their own uniqueness.

As I said above, what we found at Linangkit was a family who are passionate about their cultural traditions and heritage and willing to put their funds together to create this village. They are recording their culture in photos and videos and will use this material in the museum that is currently being built. So, for example, they are keeping photographic notes of all the rituals performed by their customary priestesses, from the preparations to the ceremonies themselves.
There is a concerted and conscious effort at Linangkit Cultural Village to not only preserve the culture and traditions of the Lotud, but also to pass them on to the next generation. So the children were practising playing the traditional instruments when we were there and they practise regularly! It was great to see them playing the gongs and drums.

The name 'Linangkit' comes from the traditional knotted embroidery the Lotud do - as well as other groups in Sabah, such as the Rungus. It joins together the black sarong (skirt) that is part of the women's traditional costume. The piece being held here took Julita one and a half years to complete - working every day! When it was 3 and a half metres long, it went into the Malaysian Book of Records and she is working towards making it 20 metres long so that they can attempt to get it into the Guiness Book of Records.

And as for being able to include a mock traditional wedding in our Peoples tour, the answer is yes, we can! With a minimum number of 9 people in a group. Hmmm, I have local friends who would be interested in joining us as well...

If you have any comments, please email me at: jude@astsabah.com. And if you have any questions about Sabah or travelling here, I would love to hear from you!

Harvest Festival Month in Sabah!

May is when the whole of Sabah celebrates the Harvest Festival - the Tadau Kaamatan! There are celebrations involving dancing, singing and traditional games - as well as drinking rice wine (lihing).

The month kicks off with the Sabah Fest which has the theme of 'Harmony in Diversity' this year. And the grand concert which I attended at the beginning of the month really showed this. What a glittering display! The concert ended with more than 200 dancers gathered on stage. This is something that Sabah does very well. The traditional costumes were lovely - the dancers were young, energetic and enthusiastic - the music was an enticing mixture of gongs, drums, flutes and other local instruments - the atmosphere was delightful!

There were also some handicraft stalls set up where women were busy weaving cloth, hats and beads, as well as doing embroidery. I really love seeing these things - as well as having the opportunity to buy! The sarong in the picture is being held up by the woman who made it. The four points in the design are embroidered but the vertical join is actually done as series of tiny knots - a bit like tatting but done with a needle. Just beautiful! And the woman who made it (and sold it to me) was dressed beautifully as well. See what she had around her waist! She is from the indigenous group called the Rungus.

There is so much joy in the traditions here in Sabah - the dance, the customs, the handicrafts - and in the people themselves that events like the Pesta Kaamatan are really a lot of fun!

If you have any questions or comments, please send them to me at: jude@astsabah.com. I'd love to hear from you!