Chinese New Year Lion Dances in KK

Chinese New Year in Kota Kinabalu! It seemed to be even noisier this year - wonderful fireworks and lots of trucks driving around town full of lion and dragon troupes.
Before the start of New Year itself - which is a two week event! - there is a Lion, Unicorn and Dragon festival in KK. It's a wonderful opportunity to see the skill of these young men as they prance and jump and rear up and seem to nearly fall off the poles they leap over. It's quite an amazing display of talent and strength. You can see the poles in some of the pictures in the collage above. They're quite high and are tested carefully by the lion dancers before they begin to make sure they are stable. Some groups even have members sitting around the bottom of the poles to keep the whole structure steady.

The heads of the lions are beautiful to see and the dancer inside can give a lot of character to his lion by the way he moves the ears and eyelids, as well as the tilt of the head and the position of the leg.

Amazing how the lions can be both cute and powerful - the dances are so gymnastic!

Truckloads of lions and sometimes dragons drive around KK during the two weeks of Chinese New Year, visiting temples, homes and business places. They bless the altars, produce scrolls from their mouths that contain best wishes for the year to come, and amaze and delight with their antics on the poles! You can really hear people ooh! and aah! as they watch the amazing techniques that the skilled pair of lion dancers has.

When a new lion's head has been made and is ready to be worn in a dance, someone with status is invited to draw in the centre of each eye - giving life to the head. Quite an inspiring idea. Perhaps one that would make you think twice if you were invited to do this!

These pictures were taken by Helen Morgan and Yap Cheen Boon at the Lion, Unicorn and Dragon Dance Exhibition in KK earlier in February. There are also a couple that I took at other places.

If you have any questions or comments, we would love to hear from you. Don't hesitate to get in touch with us at: ron@astsabah.com or jude@astsabah.com

KK - coming of age

Kota Kinabalu is a great place to live. There is a lot going on here, a lot of new developments, a lot of different events happening all the time. The trick is to be able to find out about them! So you have to get onto people's mailing lists or sms lists - or join societies - or talk to people a lot about what you are interested in so that they remember to tell you when something is coming up!

And there is a new generation now making its mark in KK, so we see the cybercafes and the smart coffee shops and ice cream parlours and the trendy small restaurants with their fusion cuisine. Oh to be wanted to be seen! But I'm long past that. And I prefer the traditional small 'kopi tiams' (coffee shops), anyway.

However, I was sent an invitation to the opening of an art gallery in KK and I went there yesterday. What a great place - the Mary James Art Gallery! And just being there reminded me about how the young people of KK are having their influence on the city, shaping the look and feel of public places and happenings. The works on display also brought home to me again how profoundly artists in Sabah are influenced by the traditional cultures and handicrafts, the landscape, flora and Mt Kinabalu - hence my choice of photos for this blog! It is this link that underlies the design of AST's Flora Tour, where we explore what nature here offers and how this is so often the inspiration for artists (See our tours on www.astsabah.com)

Three Sabahan artists are being featured at the gallery at the moment. They are Awang Fadilah Bin Ali Hussein, Muhammed Amin B Muhidin and Sia Yek Chung. Their work is very different from each other's and very distinctive. Awang Fadilah works in acrylic and his black and white pictures are so full of fine detail that you are constantly seeing new things in them. Muhammed Amin, on the other hand, creates fabulous batiks on silk. They are vibrant and multi-layered, so that, again, their message is not revealed all at once - you need to keep looking at them to see what else is there.

Or you need to hear some of the stories that Ellie Hwong, the Managing Director of the gallery, can tell you about the pictures and the artists. She is committed to both the works and the artists and it is very interesting talking to her.

The third artist whose work is featured in the Mary James Art Gallery is Sia Yek Ching. He works in watercolour and the paintings on display are of pitcher plants, koi (fish) and local handicrafts. His super-enlarged pitcher plants are quite lovely.

In all three artists, the influence of Sabah is obvious, as I said above. The colours, the motifs, the themes, the richness of the cultures here and the unique offerings of nature in Sabah are all there in their work! I am not an artist myself - but I love looking at it, appreciating it and, occasionally, buying it! And all the works on display are very interesting to just look at and enjoy.

The works are all on sale and cater to the high-end and corporate slice of the market. Ellie is committed to promoting the work of Sabahan artists, though, and we look forward to some more exhibitions and perhaps 'meet the artist' evenings at this lovely new art gallery in KK.


You can visit the Mary James Art Gallery blog to see some of the works currently on display: http://mjartgallery.blogspot.com/. You can also call (088) 270223 for a viewing at the gallery.
If you have any comments or questions, don't hesitate to get in touch with us at: ron@astsabah.com or jude@astsabah.com. We'd love to hear from you!

New Year's Day 2010

What better way to start a New Year than going out into the countryside with good friends, a delicious picnic and cameras to the ready!

Four of us set out in the morning – three of us with cameras set to go! We drove through a beautiful part of Sabah and were delighted when we came upon a spot where we could look down into a valley of terraced padi. It was an idyllic scene – the golden padi, the dark green hills and the sparkling water.

Padi has two stunning moments – first, when it is planted out and is a vibrant green, shimmering with its own potential, and then when is it ready to harvest and is a glowing gold, heavy with rich ripeness.

On New Year’s Day, the padi was golden and ready to harvest.

And there were people doing just that! They were harvesting by hand, using the traditional short, curved blade. These were small groups of people who saw us and waved and shouted greetings,holding their fistfuls of padi in the air for us to see. And then photographing us photographing them!

They were also threshing by hand and, somehow, we felt privileged to see them.

The air bubbled with fun!

As evening came, the scene was cast in a particularly beautiful light.

These photos were taken by my friends, Boon and Jessica, and me.

Our day-long trip took us from Kota Kinabalu to Ranau (on Mt Kinabalu) and then from Ranau to Tambunan, through the Crocker Range. We then crossed back over the Crocker Range from Tambunan to KK.

If you have any comments or questions, please get in touch with us.

We'd love to hear from you at jude@astsabah.com or ron@astsabah.com.

Trying to be selective!

The Pesta Ka'amatan is now at an end - we'll have to wait another year for the next Harvest Festival. It's a wonderful month of celebration - and a real problem as far as photos go! I took a lot and just can't decide which ones to show you.

So have a look at these pictures that were all taken at the Heritage Village which is part of the Sabah Museum. During the first week of May, in particular, there were lots of activities going on in the traditional houses that are built around a lovely pond and up a hillside.

One of the moments that made me smile was seeing a woman fishing in the pond! She looked completely at home. (Top left) There was a house especially for weavers, embroiderers and beadmakers and they sat quietly getting on with their own work. Cloth, embroidery and beads were for sale. (2nd left top) In a replica of an old Chinese house, there were a couple making pots and carving them. It was lovely to see the young woman using the old pot as her model for the one she was working on. (3rd left top) And everywhere you went, you bumped into people wearing their traditional dress - so modestly and so proudly at the same time. (Top right) In a lot of houses, there were groups playing music and dancing, sometimes for visitors and sometimes for themselves. I tried using the local type of castanets that one group was using - not as easy as it looks - but a terrific sound. (Bottom right) And there's something elegant about the headdresses that sway as the wearer moves! (Bottom middle) Sometimes people just sat and watched what was going on - the same as I was doing! (Bottom left) In this second collage, you can see one of those elegant, totally confident older women you would love to get to know. (Top left) And there were a couple of friends who decided to sit outside, away from the air-conditioning, for a while. (Top middle) Then a beautiful pair of children who were very involved in the dancing and being taught carefully how to maintain their traditions. Just getting dressed correctly is something to learn! (Middle) On the right is a close up of the necklaces the young boy was wearing and the gold decorations on the front of his shirt. (Right) From the young to the old - we saw an old man do a very energetic dance, with foot stamping and arm waving! It was a privilege to see him. The younger people with him explained that he was the oldest person in their village to do this particular dance. (Bottom left) And finally, there's the humorous guy - he was sitting outside to have a smoke and you just wish you could talk to him and have a laugh together. (Centre bottom)

Pesta Ka'amatan - the Harvest Festival month - the month of May in Sabah. What a great time to be here! The high points of the festival are in the first week and the last two days of the month.

If you have any questions or comments, do write and let us know. Send a note to ron@astsabah.com or jude@astsabah.com. We'd love to hear from you!

May - Harvest Festival Month in Sabah!

Pest Ka'amatan is the Harvest Festival Month of May which stems from a tradition centred around rice and thanking the gods for a good harvest. This year the celebrations started in Papar, a small town about 40 minutes south of Kota Kinabalu.

The main ethnic group in Papar are the Kadazan. They were dressed in their finery for this day, looking wonderful from top to toe! Both men and women wear basic black velvet that is highlighted with gold buttons and braid. It looks stunning! You can see also that some women have frothy white blouses showing at the neckline and top their dress off with very finely woven hats that have fluffy decorations on top. Their hair is tied up in a scarf under the hat. The men wear a regal-looking headdress made from a square of hand-woven cloth that is rolled and folded into shape.

One of the wonderful aspects of these cultural events in Sabah is that everyone is involved - town folk and village folk, young and old. The children are involved in playing gongs, drums and bamboo flutes, as well as taking part in the dancing. And while it isn't unusual to see mixed groups of men and women playing gongs, this was the first time I had seen an all-woman gong team!

The festivities of the first week continued back in KK with a 'cultural extravaganza' put on by the Sabah Tourism Board (among others). This year the theme was 'Mystical Sabah' and the show was fantastic, involving 600 performers! My camera couldn't possibly do it justice!

But as well as that, there was a handicraft and food showcase where there were fascinating displays and demonstrations of local handicrafts from all over Sabah. The word 'demonstrations' isn't really accurate as these talented men and women were just carrying on with the work that they had brought from home! In the picture above, you can see one of the Papar hats being made from plant fibre. The woman making it is apparently the last one from that area who knows how to do it - but as people in Sabah are very aware of the importance of preserving and handing on their cultural traditions, I am sure that someone else will be learning. The fineness of the weaving in these hats has to be seen to be believed!
The woman on the left is embroidering a head cloth to be worn by a Rungus man. These are wonderful pieces of work as they are double-sided, in this case with yellow on one side and the usual black on the other, and richly worked.

Sitting next to her was a gong-maker from the same area and behind him you can see a completed head scarf.

These are only a few of the incredible artisans you can see in Sabah. On our tours, we go to a variety of Rungus villages north of Kota Kinabalu where there is a 'One Village One Industry' project and you can see these crafts being developed on a daily basis.

More later! If you have any questions or comments, please let us know at: ron@astsabah.com and jude@astsabah.com. We'd love to hear from you!

Brenda's overnight trip to Tenom

I recently spent two wonderful weeks in Sabah. During the first week, I took the Food Tour offered by Adventure Study Tours and in the second week, I did several of their day trips. These included an overnight trip to Tenom, a two and a half hour drive south-east of Kota Kinabalu. This was an opportunity to see a different part of Sabah. To get to Tenom, we needed to cross the Crocker Range, the mountains that lie north-south in the country and include Mt Kinabalu. We went over an amazing road with wonderful views back towards the sea and with hair-raising road elevation inclines of up to 19 degrees. Fortunately Jude has driven this road a number of times and can do it without overheating the car!

Once we entered the valley on the other side of the mountains, we passed lots of padi fields that were at various stages of growth, some seeming to have just been planted, while others were ready to harvest. The journey took us through villages in which we could see traditional wooden houses on stilts.

In Tenom, the hotel we stayed at was perched precariously on the side of the mountains and has outstanding views back along the valley. From my hotel room window, I was able to watch a rainstorm come along the valley to Tenom. The storm clouds were beautiful!

Besides making the trip to Tenom itself, we wanted to visit the Sabah Agriculture Park with its huge array of fruit trees and many different plants, including an amazing collection of hybrid and native orchids. We spent a number of hours on two days, with a knowledgeable local guide, walking through the park, tasting fruit, learning about almost everything we looked at and taking innumerable pictures of plants and flowers. One of the highlights of the park is the restaurant. It is so beautifully situated, it's hard to describe! Just look at the picture of the scene we were looking at as we had lunch.

We went back to Kota Kinabalu on another new road for me, going through Tambunan and passing the Rafflesia Centre but there weren't any rafflesia in bloom - unfortunately. (Rafflesia is the world's largest flower.) The road went through rainforest as we crossed back over the Crocker Range and, as could perhaps be expected, it rained all the way! As far as I was concerned, this only enhanced my 'rainforest' experience.
This was the last day of the very active two weeks I had in Sabah. There is still so much to see that a return visit is definitely needed. Next time, perhaps the rafflesia will be in bloom, maybe I'll get to the islands, and to Sandakan and ...

Brenda Morgan, Calgary, Canada

If you have any questions about Brenda's trip or Sabah, please don't hesitate to write to us at: ron@astsabah.com and jude@astsabah.com. We'd love to hear from you!

Going to a Lotud Wedding - by Brenda Morgan

How fortunate I was to be here in Sabah for a real Lotud wedding! The nephew of the Manager of the Linangkit Cultural Centre (see the blog below Preserving traditions - a family venture) was getting married and I was invited through my connection with Ron and Jude. I had chosen to do the Food Tour with Adventure Study Tours and was lucky enough to be included in the wedding as well.

When we arrived at the Cultural Centre, we were warmly welcomed and taken straight into the area where the bride and groom were sitting on a dais. We were asked to sit on the floor - Ron went onto the stage with guests and local dignitaries and my friend and I sat down with the women in their beautiful traditional costumes. We were immediately surrounded by plates of traditional food which we ate with our fingers.

Meanwhile, the bride and groom were having photos taken with different groups of wedding guests. We were introduced and they asked us to have a photo taken with them as well.

My overwhelming impression was of the hospitality of these people who were going to entertain and feed over 800 guests during the course of a long day! Everyone wanted to know our names and where we were from and there was always someone with us to make sure we had something to eat and to fill our bowls with local brew. This is called 'bahar' and is a type of toddy or palm wine, made from coconut sap, fermented with special bark. We drank it from bowls, rather than glasses, and it was rather bitter with a strong alcohol taste. (The photo of Brenda drinking 'bahar' was taken by Consuelo Cardenas M. The others were taken by Brenda.)

The afternoon included a mixture of traditional and western-type entertainment. Firstly, there were young girls showing off their traditional dance skills to the accompaniment of gongs and drums and then the guests had a lot of fun with karaoke and line dancing. And everybody was involved: the bride and groom, the managers of the cultural centre, young and old - and even us!

The bride and grooom changed into western clothes during the course of the afternoon and then the dancing and karaoke carried on!

The food, the drink and the hospitality continued into the evening in the wonderful setting of the village.

As I think back to this day, my memory is of wonderfully hospitable people who seem to know so well how to have fun in a relaxed and comfortable way - in a really beautiful environment.

Brenda Morgan, Calgary, Canada

If you have any comments or questions about Sabah, please write to us at: ron@astsabah.com and jude@astsabah.com. We'd love to hear from you.

Welcome to the AST Community Blog!

Helen (on the left), Ron (or Griffin, as I call him) and I are delighted to be able to design tours for people like you. I'm Jude. You can find out a bit more about us on our website - http://www.astsabah.com/.

We all love Sabah and are committed to living here and sharing some of our wonderful experiences with you.

There is so much great stuff here. The day this photo of us was taken, for example, we had just had lunch at an Indian restaurant near the waterfront in Kota Kinabalu - or KK - that is well-known for its home-style cooking. It was delicious - and I'm sorry you can't see what we ate, but it wasn't easy getting a presentable picture of all three of us!

I plan to add bits and pieces to our blog to let you know some of what I've been up to for the last few months as I have been putting our first two tours together. It's been a time of meeting very interesting people, going to lovely places and finding out where KK people really like going to eat. Food is quite a passion here! One of the lovely places I have visited is the aviary at Lok Kawi Wildlife Park - where you can see some amazing birds. The egret in this picture is quite typical of KK - they migrate here from places like China and then some seem to stay on! I can understand why.

After you've visited Sabah, we'd love you to send us your comments and photos so that they can be put on the blog as well.

If you have any questions about KK or Sabah, please ask me at: Jude@astsabah.com