Sunday, October 5, 2008

Oaths, stones and black cockerels

In August, we were invited to a celebration to end a seminar about the rights of indigenous people. There is great concern about this in Sabah, as elsewhere in the world, and the hope that improvements will be made at the government level since the UN has provided a baseline with its Declaration on the Rights of Indigenous Peoples, adopted in September, 2007.

And what a sight the ceremony was that opened this day of celebration!

The priestesses (or Bobohizan) were there with their large, swaying headdresses, looking regal and focussed. The priest who led the ceremony seemed dignified, other-worldly and sensitive. His assistant, who kept a close watch on him, was more relaxed and grounded, somehow. Mind you, he was in charge of the rooster, holding it gently in his arms!

The ritual began with the priest muttering a long prayer at the peace rock which was planted in 1995 at the first celebration of Indigenous Peoples’ Day. He gave thanks for the UN Declaration of the Rights of Indigenous People and renewed the oath of those present to strive for peace. He spoke very quietly and everyone listened intently. There was no disturbance in this scene of black cloth, highlighted with gold and silver thread, coloured beads, twinkling buttons. The atmosphere was one of respect and timelessness.

After the prayer was finished, the priest and his assistant laid the rooster on the stone as a sacrifice. Its blood both cleansed the rock and reinforced the renewal of the oath to continue to strive for peace. The blood of the black cockerel spread thickly over the top of the rock. Later I was told that a bird used for this purpose cannot be eaten.


There are so many different thoughts that come to me at a ceremony like this. First of all, I feel that it’s a real privilege to be able to attend. Secondly, it’s wonderful to have this dynamic presence of tradition right here and now, being practised with such pride and dignity. Then come the concerns that I know are so real for the Kadazandusun about the future of the Bobohizan (female ritual specialists) that arise from the changes in people’s lives today - changes that impact on their attitude towards their own indigenous customs and practices. However, there is no doubt of the importance among the Kadazan people of maintaining their cultural knowledge and it is significant that there are individuals and organisations here in Sabah that are committed to doing that, such as the PACOS Trust. For more information about the Trust, have a look at their website (
http://www.sabah.net.my/PACOS/ ).

If you have any questions or comments, or you would like to find out about our tours in Sabah, please contact me at jude@astsabah.com. I look forward to hearing from you.

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